Kayees Biryani

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For the people of Kochi, Kayees Biryani or Kayikkante Biryani is not a popular eatery; it is an emotion. Nothing beats the age-old romance that permeates from a plate of warm mutton or chicken biryani. Kayees Rahmathullah Café in Mattancherry, Kochi was the first name in Biryani for the “Queen of the Arabian Sea“.

The city has changed with time, abuzz with a crazy amount of swanky new eateries. And as even the most loyal patrons of Kayees, admit the biryani is not what it used to be (20-30 years ago), Kayees still thrives. I have been in search of that lost taste, for some years…Now I think, I have got the recipe spot-on. This delicious Biryani can be made with chicken, mutton or beef.

Please read through the entire recipe before you begin. Don’t miss the Notes section at the bottom.

The Recipe Intro↓ has more information on Kayees biryani (history), pictures as well as the Recipe Video. Don’t forget to check it out.

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You can strike through ingredients, as you prep them, by clicking on the ingredient.

Ingredients: For Chicken Masala

Chicken (cut in medium-sized pieces)		1 1/4 kg  / 2.75 pounds
Almond(soaked in hot water, peeled and then pureed)		1 Tbsp
Long mild green chilli (about 3 Tbsp once chopped)		1
Small hot green chillies		6-8
Red Onions sliced		5 Nos (500 gms)
Ginger-Garlic paste (fresh)		2 1/2 - 3 Tbsp
Tomatoes, chopped		2 large
Fresh Coriander, roughly chopped		35 gms
Fresh Mint, roughly chopped		30 gms
Thick Yoghurt		3 Tbsp
Curry leaves		2 Sprigs
Lime juice ( only if yoghurt is not sour enough)		1 Tbsp
Fennel seeds (saunf /perumjeerakam)		1 tsp
Cardamom		5 Green
Turmeric powder		1/4 tsp
Coconut oil		5-6 Tbsp

For the Rice:

Basmati rice or Jeerakasala Rice		4 cups
Ghee		4 Tbsp
Red onions, sliced		2 small Nos (about3/4 cup)
Green cardamom		1 tsp
Cloves		1 tsp
Mace (javaitri/jathipathri)		1 large (whole-spice)
Water		7 1/2 cups
Salt (to taste)		3 1/2 tsp
Lime juice,freshly squeezed		1/2 tsp

For the Biryani Masala Powder:

Garlic powder  (dried garlic powder)		3 Tbsp / 25 gms
Ginger powder (dried ginger powder)		3 Tbsp / 13 gms
Ceylon cinnamon		4 long quills / 13 gms
Fennel seeds (saunf /perumjeerakam)		2 Tbsp / 12 gms
Black peppercorns		1 1/2 Tbsp / 9 gms
Cloves (grampoo)		1 Tbsp / 5-6 gms
Green Cardamom		1 Tbsp / 5-6 gms
Himalayan Pink Salt		1 tsp / 6 gms
Star Anise (thakkolam / chakraphool ) thakolam)		1 Tbsp / 3-4 gms
Caraway seeds(shahi jeera / Persian cumin)		1 Tbsp / 7 gms
Turmeric powder		1/2 tsp
Mace (javaitri/jathipathri)		1 1/2 Tbsp / 3 gms

Makes 1 cup of spice mix. Note that if you are using powdered spice instead of whole spice, you must reduce the measurements also.

For fried Garnish - and topping:

Boiled eggs		8
Cashew nuts		1/2 cup
Kismis/ golden sultanas /raisins		1/4 cup
Ghee (clarified butter)		1/4 cup
Red onions, sliced thinly		2 small
Rosewater(Top quality)		2 Tbsp
For 'sealing' dough. Instead you may use extra heavy-duty foil paper.		3 cups wheat flour (optional/ not for consumption)
Pineapple bits, 1-2 spoons Coconut Milk, Saffron strands		Optional (see notes)

Method:

Prepare the Spice Mix for Kayees Biryani:

1. Measure and add all whole spices (all ingredients for Biryani Masala Powder – with the exception of Garlic and Ginger powders, Turmeric powder and Himalayan salt) to a frying pan and toast for 2 minutes. The total weight of these whole-spices together is about (60-62 gms)
2. After toasting, add to a spice grinder along with the Garlic and Ginger powders, Turmeric powder and Himalayan salt now.
3. Grind to a fine powder and allow to cool off completely before storing in a sterile and airtight jar.

For the Chicken Masala:

1. Clean and Rinse the chicken pieces. Keep drained.
2. Add the almonds(1Tbsp) to a bowl of hot water. After a while, peel them and add to a grinder with a spoon of water and grind to a puree.
3. Grill the long, mild chilli(1) on open flame till charred. Add this along with the small hot chillies(6-8).
4. Heat the coconut oil(5Tbsp) in a pressure cooker or heavy-based pot(urulli).
5. Add the fennel seeds(1tsp), green cardamom pods(5) and curry leaves(2sprigs).
6. Once popping, add the sliced onion(500gms) and saute on medium heat for 5-7 minutes. Stirring frequently and ensuring that the onion does not go dark in colour.
7. Add the ginger-garlic paste (3 1/2Tbsp) and combined crushed green chillies.
8. Saute again for 2 minutes on low-medium heat till the rawness of ginger and garlic is gone.
9. Now, add about 4 tsp of the prepared Biryani spice mix. We may need to add more later. This varies on the amount of chicken/beef/mutton used. Use your own discretion.
10. Saute briefly till fragrant without any scorching of the spices in the cooker.
11. Now, add the thoroughly drained chicken pieces. Toss the chicken in the sauteed masala well. Toss till the chicken turns uniformly opaque and the masala coats the pieces nicely.
12. After this, I check to see the color of the coated chicken and may or may not add a little bit more spice mix(up to 1 tsp), depending on the color.  The chicken should be lightly coloured with the masala.
13. Add the turmeric powder(1/4tsp) and salt to taste (1 -1 1/4tsp). toss through.
14. Also, add the chopped tomatoes and toss briefly till softened.
15. Once tomatoes are softened, add the yoghurt and stir briskly till mixed in. It is good to add yoghurt, that has been whipped first. Add lime juice(1Tbsp) now – only if you are using yoghurt that is not sour.
16. Lastly add the fresh mint and coriander leaves. Mix through.
17. If using a pressure cooker, close and cook on medium heat till you hear one steam whistle. Remove from heat. If cooking in a heavy-based pot/urulli, cover tightly and cook on low heat for 10 minutes. ( Cooking time may vary according to the type of chicken used. Country fowl, often needs a longer cooking time).
18. Once the cooker has cooled down, gently remove the pieces of chicken from the gravy, using tongs and place into the pot used to ‘dum’ the chicken and rice together. (Dum – sealed method of cooking)
19. Reduce the remaining gravy by simmering till thickened, stirring frequently so that NO BURNING/SCORCHING occurs.
20. When the gravy looks right, pour over the chicken in the ‘dum’ pot. Cover this till the rice is ready.

For the Rice:

1. Before you start cooking the chicken masala: Rinse the Biryani Rice once a few times till the water runs clear. Keep drained at least 15 minutes.
2. While the chicken masala is being cooked, we can start preparing the rice.
3. Heat the ghee(4Tbsp) in the pot for cooking rice.
4. Add the sliced onion(2small) and saute slowly on low heat. Stir occasionally and patiently cook till the onions start turning light golden. At this stage add the green cardamom(1tsp), cloves(1tsp) and 1 large mace. The mace should be crushed to a powder before adding. Try to get as fine a powder as possible.
5. Stir the onions along with these spices till aromatic, and the onion becomes a distinct golden color.
6. Add the drained rice and stir. Stir and cook for 2 minutes, till the rice smells absolutely delightful! As the rice fries in the ghee, it develops a nutty aroma.
7. Add water(7 1/2cups). Bring to a boil adding salt(3 1/2tsp). Also add lime juice(1/2tsp).
8. AS SOON AS BOILED, cook covered on low with a tight lid. Close any steam vent and time for 10 minutes. No need to stir in between. Just check after ten minutes, that the water is completely absorbed.
9. Fluff up the rice with a fork or spatula, immediately when done.
10. Placing the rice pot under a ceiling fan helps to cool it down and prevent any overcooking from the steam in the pot.
11. Once the excess steam has settled a bit, we can continue to the Dum process.

For the fried garnish:

1. Heat the ghee(1/4cup) for frying the finely sliced onions in a small pan.
2. When hot, add the finely sliced onions(2) and fry for around 6 minutes, stirring occasionally so that the slices stay separate. It may seem at first that the onions take some time to change colour, but as soon as they start changing colour, they will burn quickly so keep a close watch.
3. Strain and set aside.
4. In the same ghee, fry the cashews till golden and golden sultanas till puffed. Drain and set aside.

 

On to the ‘DUM’ – sealed cooking method for Kayees Biryani:

Now we will cook the chicken masala and the rice together in a sealed, steaming environment.

You need a pot, large enough to hold both the rice and masala and enough room for some steam to develop as well.

1. Uncover the Chicken Masala in the ‘dum’ pot.
2. Add ¾ of the fluffed up rice over the masala, making sure the rice is thoroughly fluffed up, to begin with ( no lumps ).
3. Gently press/pat the surface of the rice layer.
4. Drizzle over 2 Tbsp of the ghee used for frying the onions and cashews, and the rosewater(2Tbsp)
5. Reserve the remaining rice for serving time.
6. If using dough to seal the pot: Mould the kneaded wheat flour dough into a thick rope. Press all around the rim of the pot and quickly press down with the lid to seal. Make sure there are no gaps where dough does not seal the thin gap between the pot and lid. If using foil paper (in case of oven-baking):  Use a double layer of HEAVYduty Aluminum foil and seal the edges very tightly.
7. On stove-top: Place the pot over an old flat pan/ Tawa on a medium flame and cook on this indirect heat for 10-15 minutes. Allow to rest for 10 minutes and later cut open through the hardened dough and open the lid. Wood-fired stoves are best and definitely use this if you have the option to do so. Also add live coal on top of the lid (once again, if you have the option to do so) when cooking on the stovetop for best results.
8. In the Oven: Preheat the oven to 200 °C /392°F , when you are cooking the rice. Bake on the lower rack of your oven, with heating element from above for 20 minutes. Unwrap the foil to fold in the Masala with the rice.
9. To do so: Fluff up the rice on top without touching the chicken masala.
10. Remove some rice from the top  to another wide-mouthed pot or serving dish and scoop out the chicken masala MIXING  the rice with the masala as you do so. Once you have added about half (of rice and masala mixture) Add some of the reserved white rice. Then add masala rice and white rice in 2-3 alternate layers, topping with a scant scattering of the white rice. This makes your Biryani more pleasing to look at.
11. Garnish with the boiled egg, fried onion, cashew and kismis.
12. Serve with salad and pickle. Enjoy!
13. Do let me know if you tried my style recipe for Kayees Biryani. Love to hear from you.

Kayees Biryani

Notes:

• This Biryani may be made with Chicken, Mutton or Beef.
• Often in Kayees Biryani, you will find pineapple bits in the rice. You can add that while doing the dum. A little coconut milk(2Tbsp), may be added to the meat masala also for a different scent, that is also nice! And finally add two pinches of Saffron strands while layering the rice. These are common in Kayees biryani, but I often omit them. Result is delicious.
• Kayees style Biryani is served with Salad of Onions, tomato, Green Chilli and Curry leaves, mixed in vinegar water and salt. No yoghurt. It is also commonly served with Date pickle and sometimes lime pickle also. Add the Papad and you are good to go!
• I have a great Date and Mango Pickle here.
• You can use upto 4 Tbsp of Garlic powder and Ginger powder.
• If cooking with beef, use yoghurt that is not too sour and omit any lime juice in the masala. Use 4-5 tsp Biryani masala powder. Pressure cook mutton or beef till tender. Follow the rest of the recipe the same.
• We use only one Tbsp of Blanched and peeled Almond here, but make sure these are fresh. Stale nuts must not be used.
• Mace is to be powdered just prior to adding to the rice preparation. This is an important ingredient in this Biryani.
• Rosewater is available at most Indian grocery stores (do not confuse with rose extract or essence)
• Sliced shallots can also be fried for the garnish.
• The fresh herbs used in the biryani(mint and coriander) must be exceptionally fresh – especially mint – if your mint is not really fresh omit it. Using wilted mint will ruin the biryani.
• If we were to double or triple this recipe,  the layering of the dum should be in several layers. ie. a layer of masala, followed by a layer of rice and repeat 2 or 3 times. For the quantity in this recipe, multiple layers are not required. However, it is good to layer some spice, coriander, ghee and rosewater solution in between first and second layers of the rice.
• To picky Kayees fan, who argue, ‘but the masala is different’ or ‘this doesn’t belong’ or this is not the method’… Hotel biryani is made o a very large scale. If you try the exact method with smaller quantities of everything- you are not going to get the same taste! I have been developing recipes for a long time and I creat from taste. So, those who trust my recipes, will love the biryani. Small changes are made according to a cooks own personal taste.

Key Ingredients: Chicken/Mutton/Beef, Onion, Garlic, Ginger, Green chilli, Tomato, Mind , Coriander, Lime, Oil, Ghee, Salt and Special Biryani Spice Mix(recipe provided).

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